Q
Do I have to have a “certificate of electrical safety” (COES) for the work you do?
AFor most electrical repairs and installations, yes, the electrical contractor by law must issue a COES. The exception is work on portable appliances or non-fixed wiring. There are two types of COES, one for most kinds of work and one for work on the switchboard, mains cable and meter panel. The later usually requires the appointment of an electrical inspector, which costs over $200.
Q
Can I supply my own parts for you to install?
AYes, you are welcome to source and supply anything you like (fans, light fittings, oven, ECT). However if there is a warranty issue, I cannot repair the problem free of charge. I would also advise that you research the product carefully, as some items may not be appropriate to be installed in the position or location you may think, or buying a certain product can require a longer installation time, costing you more.
Q
Should I get a quote?
AFor large home projects like renovations and extensions, I would recommend getting at least 3 quotes. But make sure you know where everything is going first, and make sure the quote is as detailed as possible, so there are no misunderstandings when the bill comes. For small jobs like putting in a power point or replacing a light, a quoted job will usually cost more, as more allowances for materials and labour are used just to make sure the job is profitable for the electrician. And also the quote is only free if you don’t get the job done 😉
Q
My switchboard is old, does it need replacing?
AIf it has the rewirable fuses (the rectangular ceramic ones with the wire in it), it is advisable, if you can afford it (3hrs labour + parts + coes + inspector = around $1000). The older boards do not have safety switches, which can prevent fires, electrocution and excessive damage to internal wiring and appliances. Some older boards can be fitted with safety switches if there is room to install them however this can be problematic, which I won’t go into now. Also if a switchboard is replaced, extra costs may ensue, due to pre-existing wiring faults that need repairing before the safety switches can be operated, or an illegal/no earthing system that the inspector requires to be rectified.
Q
I have had my old low voltage halogen downlights replaced with new LED lamps and they flicker or stop working. What’s going on?
AEither you have had new LED globes installed with the government incentive scheme, or you have done it yourself. The downlight is made up of two components; the transformer and the lamp. Basically, the old halogen transformer was designed to run the halogen lamps. The new LED lamps are not. This can cause lamp failure and flickering. Sometimes you may not have any problems, if you are lucky, and the transformer/lamp combination is almost compatible. It will eventually stress the components, reducing the life span. Also if the lights run through a dimmer they can cause strobing, incorrect light levels or adversely affect other lights in the room.

Ask Recon Electrical

  • DO I HAVE TO HAVE A ‘CERTIFICATE OF ELECTRICAL SAFETY’ (COES) FOR THE WORK YOU DO?

    For most electrical repairs and installations, yes, the electrical contractor by law must issue a COES. The exception is work on portable appliances or non-fixed wiring. There are two types of COES, one for most kinds of work and one for work on the switchboard, mains cable and meter panel. The later usually requires the appointment of an electrical inspector, which costs over $200.

  • CAN I SUPPLY MY OWN PARTS FOR YOU TO INSTALL?

    Yes, you are welcome to source and supply anything you like (fans, light fittings, oven, ECT). However if there is a warranty issue, I cannot repair the problem free of charge. I would also advise that you research the product carefully, as some items may not be appropriate to be installed in the position or location you may think, or buying a certain product can require a longer installation time, costing you more.

  • SHOULD I GET A QUOTE?

    Either you have had new LED globes installed with the government incentive scheme, or you have done it yourself. The downlight is made up of two components; the transformer and the lamp. Basically, the old halogen transformer was designed to run the halogen lamps. The new LED lamps are not. This can cause lamp failure and flickering. Sometimes you may not have any problems, if you are lucky, and the transformer/lamp combination is almost compatible. It will eventually stress the components, reducing the life span. Also if the lights run through a dimmer they can cause strobing, incorrect light levels or adversely affect other lights in the room.

  • MY SWITCHBOARD IS OLD, DOES IT NEED REPLACING?

    For large home projects like renovations and extensions, I would recommend getting at least 3 quotes. But make sure you know where everything is going first, and make sure the quote is as detailed as possible, so there are no misunderstandings when the bill comes. For small jobs like putting in a power point or replacing a light, a quoted job will usually cost more, as more allowances for materials and labour are used just to make sure the job is profitable for the electrician. And also the quote is only free if you don’t get the job done 😉

  • I HAVE HAD MY OLD LOW VOLTAGE HALOGEN DOWNLIGHTS REPLACED WITH NEW LED LAMPS AND THEY FLICKER OR STOP WORKKING. WHAT’S GOING ON?

    Either you have had new LED globes installed with the government incentive scheme, or you have done it yourself. The downlight is made up of two components; the transformer and the lamp. Basically, the old halogen transformer was designed to run the halogen lamps. The new LED lamps are not. This can cause lamp failure and flickering. Sometimes you may not have any problems, if you are lucky, and the transformer/lamp combination is almost compatible. It will eventually stress the components, reducing the life span. Also if the lights run through a dimmer they can cause strobing, incorrect light levels or adversely affect other lights in the room.

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